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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.